Monday, 14 January 2019

Nail Myths

Nail Myths!

They are all over the place! And they can be so confusing - what to believe and what to not....

Let me explain some of the incorrect statements I found on the internet......

1. You shouldn't wear nail products all the time because nails need to breathe.

Absolutely false! Your nails do not breathe. They are dead. The only living part of your nail is the matrix where new nail is formed. 100% of the oxygen that is needed by the nail matrix to create a new nail plate comes from your bloodstream. Absolutely no oxygen penetrates through the nail itself.

2. Calcium makes nails stronger

Research studies have shown that increasing your calcium intake really won't make make much difference at all. A good balanced diet can help you have strong nails, but mainly nails respond well to good care. There isn't much to be gained from taking supplements that promise long strong nails if you then consume unhealthy food, use your nails as tools and immerse the nails in chemicals and don't bother with any kind of nailcare. Forget about supplements as a 'fix' for nails. The key to strong healthy nails is - a good balanced diet, regular manicures, good cuticle oil, washing up gloves when doing housework and never use nails as tools!!!

3. Nail enhancements and gel polishes damage nails.

No they don't. Nail coatings don’t cause any harm the nail plate at all.
Any nail damage, if it does occur, is usually the result of improper application and/or removal. Nothing that can be put on the nail will damage your nails. A nail technician who is not properly trained, or who rushes their work, will cause damage by over filing or incorrect application. A client who picks or pulls the nail enhancement or gel polish off will damage the nail. Nail enhancements can actually be beneficial by providing weaker nails with a protective coating.

4. It is best to avoid all nail products because they have chemicals in them.

It is easy to worry too much about the term 'chemical' - Chemicals are everywhere and even water is a chemical substance. The use of chemicals is not something that is going to always cause harm. The only problem with chemicals is that improperly used chemicals can cause harm. So always ensure that your nail tech is qualified! Nail products are not harmful, but going to a nail tech who doesn't fully understand how to use those products is not really a good idea!

5. The white spots on nails are a sign of vitamin or calcium deficiency.

These white spots on fingernails are called “leukonychia” and they are very common. They are not a sign of a vitamin or mineral deficiency. The main cause of them is an injury to the nail, usually so minor that you will not have noticed it. The matrix at the base of the nail where the nail cells are formed is very delicate and even the tiniest damage can cause these white spots to grow. Drinking more milk will do nothing to help!

6. Gel Polish is Shellac

This misunderstanding frustrates me the most! It is not a hugely problematic myth - but it is a very annoying one for nail techs when a client expects one thing and gets another because there is huge confusion over what the products are. I have had many people come to me asking for 'Shellac' and saying they have always had 'Shellac' yet I know, from how they are describing the application and removal, that they have been previously given a Gel Polish and they were told it was Shellac...

Shellac is a type of Gel polish, but Gel polish is not Shellac! Confused?...I'll try to clarify what I mean by that....

I do both CND Shellac and Gel polish manicures. The correct term for Shellac is 'hybrid polish' which means it is a combination of gel polish and regular polish. I also use Halo Gel polish and I can tell you, from experience as a nail tech and Gel polish/Shellac wearer, that Shellac and Gel are definitely NOT the same. Both are great polishes, but that is where the similarity ends. They have a different prep method, different application, different wearability, different removal method, different removal timings and the cost of the service is different....

Does that sound to you like they are "the same"?

Shellac became a very widely known type of Gel polish in the early days of Gel Polish. Nail salons began to refer to their standard Gel Manicures as a "Shellac Manicure" - mainly because it is a very recognizable name, so it helps to bring in clients who rightly associate the name 'Shellac' with very high quality but also, sad but true (and it still happens) because Shellac is one of the more expensive ranges and so the cost of the manicure was higher than other Gel polishes, it means that salons could set their price higher while actually using a cheaper product. There is so much confusion over the term 'Shellac' that clients do not know they are actually getting a different product. Shellac is a brand of Gel, it is not a generic name for 'Gel'. It has very unique properties that differentiate it from a standard Gel Manicure. So always make sure you know what you want and need when asking for a Shellac or Gel Manicure.

7. Vitamins can absorb into the nail to make them stronger and healthier

Vitamins cannot absorb through the nail plate and alter the nail in any way. Vitamins only reach your nails through the blood stream by eating a balanced healthy diet. One vitamin that is often found in nail products however is “Vitamin E”, but it is not there for nutritional purpose. Instead it is used because there is strong scientific evidence to support Vitamin E’s antioxidant abilities and it is this reason it is used in nail care products like cuticle oil.

8. Cutting your whole cuticle off makes your nails grow healthier.

Ok....I saw this myth on the internet and it really is a whole mess of misunderstanding.
Usually when people are advising this, they are referring to the strip of skin at the base of your nail and calling it the 'Cuticle'. This is so wrong. Cuticle is a completely different thing and it makes me so angry to hear people handing out advice like this and they can't even get their nail anatomy right!
This small ridge of skin they are talking about is called the Eponychium. Some people like this to be cut or e-filed away because it makes the nail look tidier (Google 'Russian manicure') Many nail techs will not do this procedure due to the fact that it is too invasive to a delicate part of the nail ...and I agree.
The eponychium is living tissue, so cutting it can cause it to bleed. Cutting it can open the skin up to infections. It is there to protect your nail from infections. So do not cut it away!
The Cuticle is actually a build up of dead skin cells that grow up the nail from the eponychium.


Those skin cells are super sticky and attach themselves tightly to the nail plate to create a firm seal between the nail and the eponychium to help prevent bacteria getting to the nail matrix. That is a good reason to have cuticle - but even though it has benefits, we don't want it to be growing up the nail plate. The cuticle should be removed by scraping it away with a cuticle pusher. As it is just a thin layer of dead skin cells it can't be "cut off" (hence me saying that this myth is a whole mess of misunderstanding!).

So removing cuticle does benefit nail health. Is is the same kind of thing as when you apply a face scrub to clean away dead skin cells leaving you with a clearer complexion...cuticle removal has the same effect for your nails....but "cutting off your 'whole cuticle" (meaning chopping of the eponychium)...not a good idea!

9. Artificial nails cause fungal infections.

No, this is not true at all. Nothing used in the process of applying nail extensions can cause a fungal infection. Fungal infections are actually caused by pathogens we pick up from surfaces we touch and can occur with or without artificial nails. They can also happen if the client has not been advised of, or who chooses not to do, good aftercare. These infections are easily prevented by proper hand washing and sanitizing practices.

10. You shouldn't have nail treatments when you are pregnant.

There is absolutely no evidence that it is harmful to wear artificial nail enhancements or polish during pregnancy. A good nail tech will be able to advise you on the best treatment for you if you have health issues or are on medication while pregnant. But don't assume that pregnancy means you have to stop visiting a nail tech. Everyone is different and you might find that a Shellac manicure wears better/worse for you during pregnancy due to hormone levels, but it will not affect you or the baby in any way. It would be best to tell your nail tech as early as possible, especially if you have regular pedicures - because some pressure points on your feet should be avoided in pregnancy. You might find that you choose not to continue with your usual manicures for comfort reasons only. If you are an acrylic nail wearer you might be more sensitive to the monomer odour than usual, or the fragrance of some products might not be as pleasant as usual especially during early pregnancy and you might find it less comfortable to sit for the amount of time needed for your usual manicure. But from a health point of view nothing has changed...You can still have nail treatments if you are pregnant. Nail products cannot absorb into your blood stream and there are no adverse effects. And in fact, having regular hand and feet treatments can help you relax which is really beneficial for you!

Your Choices

I have heard so many worrying stories of poor care at nail salons lately.


I am not attempting to damage the reputation of High street nail salons - some are highly professional and wonderful places. Sadly, others know the ways to provide a very quick, poor service structured around keeping their costs ultra low and the profits very high. They know that, as the law stands right now, they can't be stopped. However clients can make an informed choice and avoid them - so know the signs of a NSS (non standard salon)



Be wary - of any salon that....

Doesn't have the products in their original containers.
If you can't see what the product is, how do you know what is being used? Any reputable salon will be happy to discuss with you the product that they are using. If they don't want you to know what the product is, then run away! If they do show you a product container, then make a note of the manufacturer and as many details as possible and then do some internet research about that product. If you can't find details of the product online then do NOT agree to using it. At For Your Nails Only the only products I decant are Isopropyl Alcohol, CND Scrubfresh and CND remover - this is only for ease of use, as it is much safer to have them in pump dispensers than risk spillage from an open bottle. You can always see the products that are being used and ask about them at any time.

Doesn't do a consultation form.
It is vital that a full record of your treatments is kept for future reference. An initial consultation form is full of important information. They need to know about your previous experience of nail salons, what you need and want, they need to know about your nails to advise you and ensure you choose and get the best service. They need to know a bit about your medical history and any allergies to ensure your safety. Records are also vital for insurance. In the event of something going wrong, a salon who has no record of your visits will totally be able to deny ever seeing you before. Salons with a poor professional attitude do not want any record of your being there, or any documentation of products used - so stay away from them! I always do a consultation form and they are kept securely for 7 years.

Can't/won't show you their insurance information.
I am insured and can show my insurance details to any clients if they wish to see them. If the salon you are choosing can't (or refuse to) provide you with details of who they are insured with, then how could you make a claim if you needed to? And do you really want people to provide treatments for you if you do not know that they are insured? Lack of insurance might mean they are just choosing not to pay for it. It should be a legal requirement, but sadly it isn't. Some salons just opt out hoping to ignore any issues that may occur. Lack of insurance might mean that they are unable to get any insurance - because the insurance companies have very strict rules about only covering nail techs who have recognised qualifications - and they may not have had the legitimate training needed to be insured. Training in the salon might have been their only education. As a customer, do you really want someone to work on your nails if their only training is being instructed a couple of times by someone who may not even have had proper training themselves?

Can't/won't show you their qualifications.
When you arrive at a salon for the first time, the first consultation should be almost like an interview. You are basically deciding whether to employ them as your nail technician! You should always make sure they are the right people to do your nails and that you are confident about their skills. It is not acceptable to arrive at a salon and just place your hands in front of a stranger and allow them to do a nail treatment without any communication other than choosing a colour. You NEED to be asking questions....
 
1. Are they qualified to do all elements of the job? They might have hard gel/acrylic training, but did they get training to use the e-file? They might be trained in Gel polish, but did they get further training to know how to work with the specific requirements for Shellac?
2.  Are they currently training, recently qualified and still practicing, or have they got years of experience? What skill level do you want to pay for? Everyone has to learn somehow, but do you really want to pay full price for nails done by someone who is still studying?
3.Do they know enough about the treatment to know if it is suitable for you? Are you the expert in the services they provide? No. You are there for the service AND their expert advice. that is what you are paying for. If they don't know if your nails are suitable for the application you want, should you be having it?
4. Can they advise you of your options when choosing a service? If they are not willing to run through your options of choice at the salon and take the time to help you make the best choice, then get out of there fast!

Don't ever worry and think "I don't want to offend them by asking this" Instead think to yourself "I need to make sure I am safe here". That is your priority and right. If they are not handing the information to you, make sure you request it. Do NOT ever be afraid to ask what their qualifications and experience level are and yes, you are allowed to request to see certificates. They might refuse, but a qualified professional nail tech will always be happy to talk about their education and experience level and will advise you on anything you ask. Someone who is evasive about this and any other information, will very likely have something to hide.

Doesn't tell you anything about the service/aftercare.
 A good nail tech will always discuss the suitability of the product for you and its aftercare at your first appointment. This is part of the information you need in order to decide if it is the best option for you. If a nail tech can't give you 1. Detailed information about pros and cons of a service (there are always pros and cons...no product suits all) and 2. Doesn't make any attempt to find out about your lifestyle, nail experience and habits, and 3. Doesn't inform you of any aftercare - then their lack of knowledge about the subject they should be an expert in, and their lack of concern for your care as a customer, should really be raising a red flag to you. Do you want them to apply the product if they can't give you information about it?

At For Your Nails Only, I always discuss a treatment with the client. Whether the client is new to FYNO or a familiar face, they will always get the information needed to make a choice about a new service - and I would always be very happy for them to take time to think about it first.

I have, in the past, actually advised clients to NOT have the work they want done, because their nails, or their circumstances at that time, meant that they would not have got the best from the service. If I were a NSS I would have just kept my mouth shut, taken the money and allowed them to find out later it was a wrong decision. But I don't work like that. It is always my responsibility to make sure that clients have the best for THEM. Their care is more important than my bank balance. And that is the difference between a myself and a NSS. They are focusing on mega profits being the key to their success. For me, success is all about happy clients who have healthy beautiful nails.

Remember - you are a customer paying for a service and you have every right to make sure that you have found a highly quality professional salon where you are going to be treated with the ultimate care and attention. Just sitting down in a chair and assuming all is fine because it is a 'salon' and believing that what they say is totally correct just because they say so, is not good enough.

Always take your time.

Ask questions.

Don't ever be pushed into having a service.

You are allowed to say "I will think about it" when they offer you a service you don't know anything about. Write the details down and do some research first (I highly recommend researching about Doug Schoon and always follow his advice)

Make sure you know the facts when you visit a nail salon. Don't end up making a costly painful mistake!